mortise

You’ll see screws instead of mortise and tenon joints, you’ll see comically obvious grain mismatches, the stuff is just sloppy.

Those are full-mortise, meaning that the body of the lock is entirely contained by wood on both sides of the door.

Example: I have electronic mortise locks (historic house with very custom doors that used mortise locks, replacing doors would be...

There are two doors i replaced with non-mortise locks by filling the cavities with marine epoxy, but wife really like the look of mortise locks on the others).

Paul Sellers has a 30 min video on how to make mortise and tenons joint with hand tools.

There are a very small number of wireless mortise locks, all of which are garbage and look ugly to boot.

Box locks are typically half-mortise, meaning you can see the back of the lock from the inside of the box.

You drill a hole from the show surface for the cylinder, and then you mark out and cut the mortise afterwards.

Things like small inlays but especially as pegs for draw bored mortise and tenon joints.

Lost Art Press has books and videos, Mortise and Tenon Magazine and online courses.

If you want to learn wood joints, learn mortise and tenon, dovetails, dowels or floating tenons, and nailed/screwed joints.

They key thing here is that you can get your lock nicely fitted and flush in its mortise and then drill the hole last.

It's a "mortise chisel and drill": a much more practical solution that I can buy!

I, personally, use old and/or shitty equipment and techniques when I do woodworking, for example, like using chisels to make mortise and tenons rather than a fancy plunge router, or just skipping those and using one of those fancy Festool machines that do the "fancy biscuits".

Would you, with a a straight face, make the claim that explaining something using terms like "Cheek", "Mortise & Tenon", "long grain", "Dado" and "Birdsmouth" is a valid way to explain something unrelated to carpentry?