extruder

I've suggested doing something similar for extruder-type 3D printers, using small lasers (2-5 watts) to preheat the target area just ahead of the extruder.

Make extruder-type 3D printing work better by heating the material just laid down, just ahead of the weld point.

Its a flashforge dreamer with one extruder ripped out and the heatbed removed running autodesk 123 software.

The common extruder-type printers are trying to weld a hot thing to a cold thing, which never works very well.

Make your own extruder holder (it's usually the first thing that gets designed) and pick one that is easy to unclog.

We've designed the printer heads to be modular, and after the printer is released we plan on releasing new extruder heads designed to work with new materials.

If I could have replaced the extruder with an open source clone that functioned better, I would have.

Is it splicing in different colors of filament before it runs to your extruder?

In particular they have made an extruder that fails on almost every level.

I must have replaced our extruder 5 times already, and the entire machine had to also be replaced once.

Well I think overhang is still an issue for single extruder FDM printers (like the Dremel one).

Laser based 3d printers (largely Selective laser sintering and stereolithography) also tend to be far, far more expensive than FDM (extruder based) machines.

I have heard that the dual extruder printers often get "jammed" more often.

I am assuming the "dual" prints are with a dual fixed nozzle extruder.

Not to mention that the Makerbot Mini is nearly $1400 whereas a Printrbot Simple Metal is $700 (with a heated bed so you can print ABS plastic with it) does better prints and you can fix it with parts that cost way less than a single "smart" extruder at $175.

It's actually called the Smart Extruder, you should find more results if you search for that.