belayer

Then again, I'm sure that the autobelay is safer than the average human, even so, except I really trust my belayer.

Is it common to just yeet your self off the wall like that with out saying anything to the belayer?

My belayer was clearly being a dick but not so much that he actually stopped belaying and risked my life.

The belayer should check the climber's harness and knots before allowing the climber to climb.

Bonus points if you can score a belayer that doesn't mind the boring end of the rope for an entire evening.

In addition to violet jerks, the belayer needs to keep their hands on the belay strand even if hit by falling rocks.

This can only happen if the belayer takes their hand off the brake strand.

Naturally the climber should check that the belayer's harness is fastened securely and that the belay device is rigged properly before climbing too.

Climbers need climber friends (if only for the selfish need of a belayer).

Auto belay device can't hold the climber up on the wall, like human belayer can, so that climber can rest and try again.

And a failed safety check is at least partially a belayer failure.

You can bring friends and let them top rope without the card, at least in some gyms, but the belayer needs to have the card.

Something you'll also often see is unclipping the first quickdraw to give the belayer more space to "fly".

Granted with a belayer who is much lighter than the climber this can end up being "too soft", risking a ground fall lower on the route.

I'm really averse to the autobelay because I can't feel the "pull" of a human belayer, so this is a nightmare scenario for me.

At a gym I used to climb, there was also a Grigri "failure" where a lighter belayer was pulled up the the first clip, which then unlocked the Grigri until the climber hit the ground.